By Brad Young, Money feature writer
Pubs: The Unexpected Comeback Kids
So, something peculiar is afoot in British pubs. Buy a pint at Our Gracie’s in Rochdale, and what do you encounter? A classic no-frills vibe: no live band, no televised football, and, if you’re lucky, maybe a pork pie. Because who needs nachos when you can have… that?
Defying Gravity: Are Pubs Making a Comeback?
Sandwiched smugly between a Wetherspoon’s and a Hogarths, this independent, wet-led establishment is precisely what the naysayers predicted wouldn’t survive a “death by a thousand cuts” when they lamented to Sky News about the grim state of the industry last year. But miraculously, Our Gracie’s, now crawling its way up to a whopping seven days a week, might just be proof that pubs are tougher than they seem. Who knew drinking alcohol could be a form of resilience?
Quality Over Quantity: The Rise of the Better Pub
“Pubs always adapt,” says Katie Gallagher, our oracle from Lumina Intelligence. It’s as if they’ve taken a page from survival of the fittest, shedding their unworthy kin. Post-pandemic, the market was a staggering £23 billion, which lost a jaw-dropping 61% of its value in 2020—a real plot twist. However, in the thrilling sequel, industry turnover is expected to see 2% growth next year! Spoiler alert: Pubs are back, baby!
The Disappearing Act
Indeed, over 4,000 pubs waved goodbye between 2019 and 2024, presumably for a mini-vacation somewhere sunny. Perhaps they were simply fed up with applying for grants while dealing with rising ingredient costs and the temptation of superstores selling booze at rock-bottom prices. But with a spark of optimism, average weekly sales revenue now boasts a 15% increase compared to pre-pandemic levels. Thank you, my pint-bearing friends!
Who’s Still Standing?
Jon Riley, the mastermind behind Our Gracie’s, insists they’re getting back to the basics of what pubs used to be—before food became a pretentious necessity. “People appreciate not having to dodge loud bands and families clad in Sunday best fighting over Yorkshire puddings.” And over in London, The Devonshire is thriving as a gourmet fortress, where guests frolic amidst restaurant accolades while Ed Sheeran serenades them. Oh, to have that kind of luck!
Lessons from the Survivors
While One-Pint Jon at Our Gracie’s is content with his niche, Oisin Rogers from The Devonshire denies the pub’s slow demise that headlines scream about. Perhaps he’s just sipping too much of his own success? The takeaway? Find your niche, people! Whether it’s fancy food, live music, or simply being the only place within two miles that serves alcohol, know your community’s cravings.
The Next Hurdle: Are Pubs Resilient or Just Foolhardy?
Despite feeling like we’re clutching a golden pint, there’s dark, frothy news. Business costs crept up in April as minimum wage and National Insurance contributions rose dramatically. It’s as if the government decided pubs needed a finance boot camp. Meanwhile, Ash Corbett-Collins warns that without changes to draconian business rates and tax, many dear local watering holes might vanish quicker than the last cold pint.
As for those independent wet-led boozers? They might just be the cockroaches of the pub world—hardy and unphased by chaos. As the Old Bakehouse in Welshpool demonstrates, sometimes small is mighty. With minimal overhead and an undefinable charm, they’re clinging to life while keeping their creative survival hats on.
